4 things I learned from the Threads Sewing Guide

Today is the last day for you to enter the giveaway for the Threads Sewing Guide! So to round off this lovely giveaway week, I’m going to tell you four (of the many) things I’ve learned from the Threads Sewing Guide.

1. Ease

This book taught me about ease: what it is, why it’s important, and how to factor it in when you decide on a pattern size. You have wearing ease and design ease, and both are essential to a well-made garment. Ease is the extra space in a pattern to account for wearability. Did you know that knit garments can have negative ease? That’s because knit fabric is stretchy and doesn’t need the same space that wovens do to be comfortable.

2. All the pleats

The Threads Sewing Guide teaches you about all the pleats. A pleat is a fold in the design of the garment,  but there are many ways to make that fold. You have your basic knife pleat, which has two folds, one visible and one hidden. The box pleat is two knife pleats facing opposite directions. My favorite is the the inverted pleat, the opposite of a box pleat. My wedding dress had inverted pleats on the side seams and it was so sophisticated. (And in case you were wondering, I did not make my own dress. My wedding was in my pre-sewing days!)

You also can make an inverted pleat with an underlay, as well as accordion and sunray pleats. So many pleats!

anchor pleats corilynn]{The Shoreline Dress by Corilynn–this girl loves her pleats, and I love her for it!}

3. Pointy points

Did you know that the way you stitch an angle (like on a collar, for example) can make it either wonderfully pointy or frustratingly dull? If you pivot while stitching the corner, like you think you should, your turned corner will actually be blunt. If you want a crisp point, stop your stitching a few stitches before the turning point. Pivot, and stitch just a stitch or two across the corner. Then pivot again and continue your stitching!

collar-4{image and accompanying tutorial found here}

4. Where to put the buttons

When designing and sewing a garment, the placement of the buttons matter greatly. To achieve the best fit, make sure you have a button at the fullest point of the bust and at the natural waistline. If you have a belted number, place a button both above and below the belt, and if you’re making a jacket or blouse, a button should go just under the base of the collar.

IMG_7223

The Threads Sewing Guide is such a wonderful reference for all things sewing, and I mean it when I say you need it in your sewing room within easy reach. You have until tonight at midnight to enter the giveaway, so click here for the giveaway post. Good luck, and happy sewing!

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